Over the next few weeks I will be showing you how to use elastic in your projects. Before all of that, I will show you some examples of the different types of elastic available on the market. Elastic is commonly found on waistbands on comfy clothing and clothing that requires a lot of movement, like sportswear. It is great for children’s wear since it is comfortable, allows growth and easy to wear. Elastic is not just for function, it can be used to add decorative touches to a piece of clothing, a design feature or to apply a textile feature to the surface of fabric. It is one of the most easiest sewing methods to create a waistband but I won’t be using this to make smart trousers and skirts. You may not know but there are so many choices available and you probably wouldn’t know how to use them. Here is the break down.
Types of elastics and what they are made from
Elastics come in many widths and fibre contents. The wider ones are generally used for waistbands while narrower widths are used for armholes, necklines, leotards, swimwear, underwear, babywear, jewellery or creating textile pieces. Generally, most elastics on the market are made from rubber or spandex strands, wrapped in polyester, cotton, or polyester fibres. These are then braided, knitted or woven into elastic. Clear elastic is one exception, since the exposure of sunlight and harsh chemicals means it needs to be made differently to withstand such environments. You can get elastics made with cotton/rubber blend. They can withstand more heat and chlorine exposure compared to polyester blends.
Even elastics made from rubber cannot withstand time. It will become discoloured, brittle and no longer retain its shape. It loses its elasticity and deteriorate over time, even if you leave it in the corner of the room and not use it.
The 4 main types of elastics available
Knitted Elastic
This type is very common and most people sewing waistbands will recognise this type instantly. As the name suggests, the elastic and the fibres are knitted together to form a tape. You can get this elastic tape in many widths. The knitted elastic retains its width when it is stretched out and is shrink resistant. When using this type of elastic for waistbands, be aware it tends to roll/fold in half after sometime of use.
You could sew through it to stop it from rolling. The needles can pierce the elastic without much damage. You may cut the length slightly shorter than the finished measurement otherwise it will become too loose. Do take note, after exposure to light and washing, the elastic may lose its colour and elasticity. It may become frail and brittle over time. This elastic is soft against the skin so it can be sewn directly to the fabric without a casing. I think it is very ugly to have the white knitted elastic exposed. I tend to have this elastic in a casing.
Suitability: Light weight to medium weight fabric, and waistbands. Great for pyjamas.
Braided Elastic
Most people tend to recognise this type of elastic since it is common and readily available. It comes in black or white. The tell-tale signs that this elastic is braided is by looking at it closely. It has ridges running parallel lengthways along the elastic. Because of the parallel strands running along the length, after being pierced with a needle it will lose its stretch. Braided elastic does not retain its width when stretched.
I tend to use this elastic directly on the fabric for less ruching and gathers. I don’t use it in casings for waistbands. It won’t be as strong compared to a knitted or woven elastic. Your trousers will keep falling down if you use this elastic in the waistband! I tend to use it in casings for off-the-shoulder tops and the garments suggested below. You could create smocking effects using a very thin braided elastic. Braided cotton elastic is most suitable for swimwear.
Suitability: Ruching on ruffles, necklines, sleeve hems, smocking, clothing for children and dolls clothing. This could be used on parts of swimwear.
Woven Elastic (No-Roll Elastic)
You don’t actually see this elastic around much but it is not impossible to get hold of. This elastic is the firmest of the 4 elastics and does not roll. This elastic is sometimes labelled as “No-Roll Elastic”. It has very distinctive vertical and horizontal ribbed markings run along its length. You can use this elastic in all applications since it retains its width when stretched lengthways. The elastic is great for casing when using heavy weight fabrics.
The elastic is firm so it will not lose its stretch over time as much as the knitted and braided elastics. You can sew through this without weakening the elasticity. When cutting this elastic, you do not have to take out extra elastic to compensate for the stretch. Just cut it to the waist measurement required. Always try the elastic on the waist to double check though. Not all brands have the same stretch. You could always cut off a bit more to make it snug than having cut too much off and it becomes too tight. Some people claim it is not comfortable against the skin.
Suitability: All applications. Great for waistband casing. Typically used in home décor projects as well as bags.
The 4th type of elastic that is not braided, knitted or woven!
Clear Elastic
Used as a stabiliser in knitted jumpers, cardigans, and jersey garments. You will find this especially along the areas of a garment that tends to stretch in time. In the shoulders and some neckline areas of garments to help stabilise the seams or fabric. Another use for the clear elastic is to create gathers and ruches. You will find clear elastic used as an aid to help give grip to garments, especially on dancewear, gymnastic leotards, swimwear and lingerie to help keep garments in place.
Rubber Elastic
Because of the flat latex-like material, the elastic has more surface area to grip to the body. Clear elastic is made from polyurethane that will withstand harsh chemicals found in swimming pools, and salt in seawater. Polyurethane will withstand heat and use of sunscreen, so it is ideal for swimwear. A cotton/rubber blend elastic is also available which is more heat resistant compared to polyester blends and lasts longer to chlorine exposure.
Make sure you use the correct clear elastic since some brands are not designed to be used in hot tubs. Some clear elastic, when exposed to extreme heat, will soften and will not bounce back to original shape. Always check the label. Be warned! Clear swimwear elastic is strong and can be stretched up to 4 times its original length.
Suitability: Knitwear, Jersey, Gathering Fabric, Dancewear, Leotards, Athletic Apparel, Swimwear and Lingerie.
Now that I have covered the 4 main types of elastic available, to make things more complicated I am now going to cover the special types of elastics under those categories, that you may not know existed!
Lingerie Elastic
This type of elastic is typically knitted. You can get many types of this elastic. The elastic is soft and meant to sit next to the skin. The edges are sometimes scalloped, picot or have other decorative details or just plain. This elastic means you can finish it on the right side of the underwear. Lingerie elastic is heat resistant. It should not shrink in the wash. This elastic can be sewn into the fabric to allow direct contact with the skin, or inserted into a casing in the fabric. The decorative elastic is meant to be exposed. This elastic is most suitable for underwear, bodysuits, slips and waistbands.
Plush Back Lingerie Elastic
This elastic in available in an array of colours, sizes, textures, plain and decorative edges. Sometimes this elastic is also referred to as band elastic. It has a soft, plush side and a plain side. This type of elastic is most suitable for making bras, underwear and lingerie. It is knitted so it’s got a bit more stretch to it. I see a lot of this elastic on bras since it makes it sits right next to the rib cage. The plush back makes it very comfortable for the wearer.
Fold-Over Elastic (Commonly Known as FOE)
You can get this elastic in many widths, weights, colour and prints. It does not fray. It is very stretchy and used to bind stretch fabric edges. It is a good choice for underwear or athletic apparel. I found more of this type of elastic compared to the lingerie elastic! You can get these with plush on one side and smooth on the other. Sometimes then come with a print so you can decide which side to use.
Do bear in mind which side is going to be against the skin in case one side causes skin irritation. This type of elastic has a central ridge running lengthways along the elastic. You are meant to put the raw edge of your fabric inside this elastic against the ridge, then sandwich both sides of the elastic together trapping the fabric inside. This makes the edges very neat. This elastic is so versatile that you can use it on underwear, outerwear, swimwear, sportswear, and baby nappies. It is very common to use this for making hair accessories like headbands. Baby elastic is also available in FOE.
Buttonhole Elastic
Not very often used but available for those who want to make garments with adjustable waistbands. The elastic is made with buttonholes running along the whole length. A button on the inside of the waistband is then buttoned onto any of the buttonholes available. This allows the wearer to pick whichever comfortable buttonhole to use. This is great for children clothing, maternity wear and adults with fluctuating weight.
Baby Elastic
You will need to use this elastic if you want to make babywear. It is soft and lightweight but will narrow when pulled lengthways. This type of elastic is specially made so that it will stretch easily and bounce back to shape. It is heat resistant. Due to so many manufacturers, it is best to check the labels first before washing it in very hot water. This elastic can be sewn onto the fabric so it will come in direct contact with the skin.
Otherwise you could insert it into a casing so that it doesn’t leave elastic marks on the baby’s skin. Because of the size, the elastic is ideal for making doll clothing.
You could also purchase fold-over baby elastic so you don’t have to worry about finishing raw edges. Baby elastic is available in 2 widths. 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch.
Cord Elastic
You can get this elastic in many colour and sizes. This elastic is designed to be comfortable against the skin. This is commonly used in clothing that doesn’t require much stretch or in jewellery making for bracelets and necklaces. The size makes it most suitable for dolls clothing or babywear. Button loops at the back of dresses are sometimes made of this.
Elastic Thread (Commonly Known as Shirring Elastic)
Great for making textiles pieces such as smocking by machine. This elastic is wound on a sewing machine bobbin to help produce interesting textile textures. It is a quick way to gather or ruche fabric. Elastic thread can be used in jewellery making or dolls clothing because it is cheap.
Drawstring Elastic
Some people use this for pyjama pants or shorts because of the stretch. You can use it for drawstrings in sportswear, outerwear, and hoodies. Personally, I don’t like the look of this elastic. I make my own elasticated drawstrings.
Sports Elastic
Designed especially for sportswear and sports equipment. It is usually resistant to perspiration and can be washed without losing elasticity and shape. This can be used inside a casing or exposed as a design feature. Great for waistbands on jogging, and yoga pants. Here are a few more samples of sports elastic, some are FOE, while others have a reflective band on them. You can get this in many widths, thickness, colour and style.
There are so many elastics on the market, you are really spoilt for choice. Make sure you decide what type of fibre content you need your elastic to be, making sure it is suitable for your project before deciding on the style and colour.
Happy sewing and see you in my next blog!
Shan x
Too right, An. In the last 30 years it’s all about fast fashion and replacing stuff. People need to rethink about the impact they are having on the planet. For many generations people have managed to repair or make do with what they have. Unfortunately that’s the sad reality of people and businesses today. It’s all about making money.
Thirty years ago, elastics lasted better. It was also more common for them to be threaded through a channel, rather than sown onto the fabric. They were preplanned for replacement. Today the elastic lasts less time and due to the challenges of repairs, you tend to throw the clothes away. Crappy elastic is a major contributor to clothing waste. … And please note that I do not have a dryer and so my methods of washing and drying have not changed during those 30 years. I think modern manufacturing is playing a role in this problem and the industry is not interested in fixing it. However, when I repair clothes, the replacement elastic is equally prone to failure. …
Hi Yukon, I have resources but they are all in Hong Kong. At the moment post has been suspended going out. (Apart from DHL) Otherwise I would help out. This also includes nose bars. Maybe in a few weeks time because we only have 4 cases left in the city. Fingers cross. Shan.
Cotton plush elastic band is so rare to find. Please let me know if you have ANY sources.
Hi, no need to login. That message was for me. My web host had to suspend my site for a few days because too many users downloading. It’s all sorted again, up and running. x
I would like to be able to log in to your website. I don’t see how to do that