Download PDF: Smocking Pattern 4 Leaves
You will need:
- Fabric
- Scissors
- Basic 30cm Ruler
- Pencil/Tailors Chalk
- Hand Sewing Needle
- Sewing Thread same colour as fabric if possible (Ideally strong quilters thread but if it is only a sample then any sewing thread is good enough)
Tip: You may use the width of a ruler to mark the gridlines or use a ruler to measure out 1.5-3cm evenly spaced dots. I find it is much faster to use the width of a ruler to draw a grid while some designs is better to use the dot system. Using the dot system will allow you to use either side of the fabric to show more than one design. Depending on the design, your fabric will shrink up to 50% of the original size. Mark your grids/dots on grain. Do not use thread longer than your forearm otherwise it will end up knotted or tangled. The type of fabric used also plays an important part of the design. Using scale, type of fabric and whether you choose to iron the fabric after will help greatly to achieving a different outcome.
- Using a basic ruler, I marked out a grid of lines or dots on the wrong side of the fabric. Using the width will ensure the lines are evenly spaced out without having to measure.
- You may jot down the numbers on the fabric to help you recognise where you will be stitching next. After a while of stitching you should be able to workout which stitches you need to do next. Sometimes on more complicated designs it is wise to have numbers to help you.
- Get a piece of sewing thread roughly double the length of your forearm. Thread the hand sewing needle with the thread. Bring the 2 ends together. Up to you if you want to knot the ends.
- Follow the pattern instructions. Where there is a colour line joining 2 black dots, sew them together. You may jot down the sewing sequence to help you remember for next time.
- Each time you complete a cluster of stitches remember to tie off tightly. I tie a few times just to make sure. Sometimes you don’t require to cut off just to save time but things could get messy.
INSTRUCTIONS
I used 2.5cm spacing when marking the wrong side of the fabric.
I found Duchess Satin worked the best for this design with 2.5cm spacing. Poly-Cotton was ok to use but it didn’t have that much of a body compared to Duchess Satin.
Prepare your grid on the wrong side of the fabric.
Mark in the instructions.
Using needle and thread, pick up a few threads on the fabric at the dots/points indicated.
Sew dot 1a to dot 2a. Secure to finish the stitch. Cut off the thread. Move onto the next stitch.
Knot your thread if you need to. Join dot 1b to 2b. Secure to finish the stitch. Cut off the thread. Move onto the next stitch.
Repeat with stitch c. Continue repeating until you have completed all the stitches.
This design does not require ironing.
Using a bouncy fabric like a medium weight satin with a 1.5cm grid made the design much more effective. With a heavier weight satin you may have to use a larger grid.
On the left is Duchess Satin using a 2.5cm grid. The only problem I had was not getting crisp leaves. That’s because the grid was drawn slightly off grain since I didn’t have a selvage to work with and also I didn’t want to waste anymore fabric by ripping it to find the straight grain. This is a good example to show people why it is important to mark your grids on grain. On the right is the same smocking done on medium weight satin. It had more bounce to the fabric. To compensate for the weight of the fabric, I decided to use a 1.5cm grid. This turned out even better than the first sample. This shows, by using scale and different material weights you will achieve very different outcomes.
Let me know how you’re getting on with this pattern.
I’ll see you in my next blog.
Shan x