Pattern Cutting Book Review: Beginners 2 of 5

I started with the third edition when I was studying at university. I was introduced to this pattern cutting method because it was the only pattern cutting technique used by universities up and down the country (UK), in those days. It was the only known publication and was used as standard. Even when I was teaching pattern cutting at the college in 2005, we used this book. Looking back at my university days, this book was the holy grail for anyone wanting to design and pattern cut. CLICK

The book comes in a good, handy size, hard back and fits in a school bag or medium handbag easily. It is hard back so it will withstand some battering. The book is very detailed and covers a lot, from teaching you how to take body measurements, drafting basic blocks, to altering patterns to fit different body types. The good thing about this book is, it assumes you have never touched pattern cutting before and starts you of from the very beginning. The technique taught is flat pattern cutting. There are plenty of instructions and diagrams showing you how to slash and spread the blocks to help you achieve a new pattern. CLICK for PDF Copy of 5th Edition.

A lot of pattern cutting books seem to skip over or briefly covers dart manipulation and altering patterns to fit problem bodies. This book shows you a few examples to help you along the way. The book covers all the basic blocks you need to produce a whole wardrobe. Ranging from trousers, skirts, dresses, sleeves, jersey wear, outerwear, coat, kimonos, and lingerie just to name a few. The book continues to show you how to use these blocks to draft other patterns. You can use the measurement chart provided or just use your own measurements when drafting the patterns. Please don’t compare the chart measurements to your usual high street sizes. It doesn’t work like that. The sizes in the chart are determined by the guidelines published by the BSI (British Standards Institute). They are the measurements of an average UK woman. The high street shops use their own measurements and not standard. One of my student was a petite size 10 and maybe a size 12 bust. When she measured herself, she was off the chart according to the book!

There’s a section on computer grading and CAD (computer–aided design) and pattern development. I have noticed this section gets updated after the release of a few editions to keep up with times. Most people skip that bit because there is quite a bit of reading to do. Most people are only interested in the pattern cutting side to be honest. The book concentrates mainly on pattern drafting so it doesn’t show you how to sew the garments together. Towards the end there a segment where grading is covered. This is particularly useful foe those that will be drafting multiple sizes. The diagrams and pictures are very simple. The layout is good but there are areas where there is just too much text to read. Those are usually the parts you might need to know before pattern cutting. I think it is essential for you to read this but you can ignore the text pages towards the back. Some of my students (Age 16+) find it difficult to understand some of the pattern drafting instructions. Maybe because for first timers, the technical language takes a bit of time to understand. You need to practice to be able to draft the basic bodice block. Once that’s been accomplished, you should be able to follow and complete the rest of the blocks.

The only down side I don’t like about this book, which a lot of users wouldn’t realise, I have found some mistakes or have some serious questions about some of the methods or instructions. Some users may not notice this because they might not have tried all the patterns or used the entire book. I know for a fact, in the earlier fourth edition (Burgundy Coloured Book) had a mistake in drafting the close–fitting bodice block. If you are unlucky enough to own one you might be very confused right now. They later rectified the problem and added a slip of paper near the front of the book to correct their mistake. Do note, this corrected book is still the burgundy coloured book, so check for this before you buy from a book store. Otherwise just buy the latest edition which should be up to date. CLICK (This edition has a print mistake. Make sure you purchase the revised edition).

The other problem I had with this book, maybe it is down my personal preference, is that I find the ease very big on the close-fitting bodice block. 10cm in total around the bust. My manager also agrees with me. She too doesn’t rate the Winifred Aldrich technique highly. I tend to use 8cm ease or less. One of my students tried drafting a draped skirt but the pattern just wouldn’t work. Even after 2 attempts, and 1 by me. We had to find a colleague, who was an experience dressmaker and pattern cutter, to try the pattern. She too couldn’t get it working either, so we ended up draping on the stand instead.

Don’t get me wrong, this a good resource and reference book for beginners to learn to pattern cut as well for experience pattern cutters out there. There’s a lot of information and diagrams. I think it is a must on any pattern cutters book shelf. Visually it just looks very basic but the wealth of knowledge is probably more than most good pattern cutting books I have seen. I find the latest editions have more instructions to draft more patterns compared to the old publications but it doesn’t mean you can’t draft those patterns with the old books. It will just take you more time to think and plan what you want to design and make. I shouldn’t rate it as high as Patternmaking by Dennic Chuman Lo but the book does cover everything a pattern cutter should know, from basic patterns to more popular designs.

Happy Pattern Cutting!

Shan x