Pattern Magic By Tomoko Nakamicki
Also available in the series are: Pattern Magic 2, Pattern Magic 3, Pattern Magic Stretch
To avoid copyright infringement material, I will including links to where you can see more images.
This is not a pattern cutting book for beginners. These books are aimed at pattern cutters and sewers with a bit more knowledge in the subject compared to other pattern cutting books I have reviewed. This shouldn’t stop you from attempting it though. The instructions are very informative and the designs are so beautiful that even a novice will want to give it a go. CLICK
First of all, I found this book around 8 years ago when it was hot off the press. I bought the first 2 without even researching into it. As a passionate pattern cutter, I knew these books had to be in my collection. I didn’t even care I couldn’t read the language. Like a lot of my books I have in my collection, I have it for resource and referencing purposes only. CLICK
When these books first came out, you could only get it in Japanese. The English versions didn’t come out until a few years later. Only recently I found out it is available in quite a few European languages. The book is paper back and thin, so it’s easy to carry around in your handbag. The technique taught is flat pattern cutting. There is a size chart but I guess this would be the standard size of the average Japanese woman since it uses the Bunka College drafting method. This could be on the slightly smaller size scale compared to the average European woman. If you want to make the designs for yourself, you will require to use your own measurements and adjust the block until it fits your body before you draft patterns from. CLICK
There are instructions if you wanted to draft the bodice block from scratch, otherwise you could use the block patterns provided. These are located at the back of the book which will require you to scale up using a photocopier. This book shows you how to make extreme clothing and challenges conventional pattern cutting and dressmaking methods previously taught at colleges and universities in the UK. The designs take inspiration from nature, and geometric shapes from the street. The result, sculptural clothing with a couture look using a creative approach to pattern cutting.
The book does not show you how to adapt a pattern to problematic bodies. The book assumes you know a bit about pattern cutting and construction so it does not cover dart manipulation or how to put the garments together. The diagrams are clear and intuitive only if you understand a little pattern cutting. Sometimes you might need to experiment to work out how to eventually put the garment together. The pages come with nice coloured photographs of the designs. The illustrations, diagrams and layout is good, full but not that you will get lost on the page. CLICK
I found the instructions and diagrams were quite easy to follow, even though I couldn’t read Japanese. I guess with the many years of pattern cutting experience there wasn’t much to deter me from trying out new pattern cutting techniques. For the inexperience pattern cutter, this maybe a little mind boggling at first. When I first taught my students how to cut these patterns, we used the Japanese book. It was almost like giving them something to draft without giving the written instructions but just diagrams only. There were some student’s that just got on fine with very little help, while other challenging designs demands more help to understand and draft. This proves you don’t really need written instructions to be able to use this book.
Most times the only problems you will face will be knowing how to construct some of these garments since it isn’t covered in the book. I found it was especially difficult if you are drafting the patterns involving the armhole (Book 2).
This is a must for students going into fashion design or the pattern cutters that wants a more challenging project. Something different and exciting to make compare to most basic pattern cutting books out there. I found book 3 to be a bit dull compared to the first 2 books in the volume but still inspiring and worth collecting.
Another book in the series that doesn’t require much introductory to, is Pattern Magic Stretch. This book is aimed at using stretch fabric and jersey to produce stunning sculptural garments. Taking advantage of the stretch properties of the fabric, you are taught how to maximise the potential to the fullest by using the lengthways or sideways grain of the fabric to manipulate and pulled to construct these garments. CLICK
This is using techniques I have yet to come across in western pattern cutting books. Again, like the above Pattern Magic books, this book will not disappoint you. Having the same format and structure with all Pattern Magic books, they are all beautifully laid out with colour photos and intuitive diagrams to take the reader from beginning to end of the process. Again, this if flat pattern cutting. Use your own measurements when drafting blocks and patterns from scratch. The sizes used are based on the standard measurement of a Japanese woman. All the books come with pattern drafting instructions taking you from block to final pattern with construction on the way. When you start collecting Pattern Magic Books, you won’t just stop at one!
Happy Pattern Cutting!
Shan x
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