Here is a list of pattern cutting essentials for the intermediate to advance level pattern cutter. This is a list for anybody that has a basic inventory already and want to add more equipment and tools to the list. If you haven’t started a basic list, then go to my blog Pattern Cutting Essentials for Beginners to see if you haven’t already got any of these already. Start collecting!
Some of these tools are a must have and some are there to make pattern cutting easy. With these tools, you should be able to draft up a professional looking pattern in no time.
You can most of this equipment in your local sewing supply store. For more specialised equipment you can get them from :
Pattern Cutting Essentials:
Awl
Also known as a clickers awl. A spike for poking holes within patterns. Using these holes, you transfer markings from pattern to fabric. It is also useful for pivoting when moving darts. A great tool for picking corners out of cuffs and collars. I sometimes us this to help guide tricky fabric into the sewing machine. You can buy these with plastic or in wooden handles.
Notcher
The notches are created on the edge of the paper pattern pieces by taking out a small rectangle for each balance point. This helps you match up pattern pieces. The paper patterns will look professionally finished. Not everyone will want one but once you have it you’ve love notching! Whatever you do, don’t buy V notch for clipping sheep ears! Do not use on fabric. Paper, card or plastic only!
Pattern Weights
Helps hold down patterns as well as fabric. I made my own using blocks of cut metal covered with masking tape for a quick fix until I find something I like. I also have bricks covered in paper and fabric. Anything weighty is good enough really.
Hip Curve Ruler
You don’t really need this if you have a Pattern Master already. Some people just like to have it in their inventory.
Metre Ruler/Metre Stick
I don’t use it very often but it is very handy to have when drafting long and big patterns. Available in aluminium or wood.
Pattern Drill
This is a great tool for cutting tiny holes out for Bust Points and Pocket Placements. The cutting bit creates a 2-3mm hole. This tool is neater than the awl. Make sure you protect the table before drilling.
Cutting Mat
You must have this when using an awl pattern drill, or rotary cutter otherwise you will end up cutting through onto the surface of the table.
Pattern Hooks
These are great for hanging your card patterns up. Saves space and organises your patterns. You will damage card patterns if you fold them.
Morplan.com is the best place to get them. They stock a few sizes and quality.
Get a hole punch to make holes for hanging.
Manila Pattern Card
Always make your block patterns and copy them onto pattern card. You will always use the blocks to draft other patterns. Using the card means you can draw around the block to draft your initial pattern before manipulating it. Click on images for link.
Morplan.com has more options.
Pattern Grader
If you are serious enough about pattern cutting you might want to invest in a pattern grader. This one is really old school. A lot of pattern grading is done by computers these days. I don’t have one of these. Most people don’t. If you draft a lot of patterns and need to grade a lot of designs, then this might save you a lot of time. Only place I have found this ancient device is at Norray Enterprise (HK) Ltd.
Mannequin/Dressform
Most dress makers and designers will have one of these. The professional usually have ones that don’t adjust. Most home sewers have the adjustable one because it is a lot cheaper than the non adjustable one, and also it adjusts to meet the body measurements.
What ever you do, do not buy a window display mannequin and expect it to do what real dressmaking mannequins do. Display mannequins usually have tiny waists and are out of proportion.
You can get them at half the scale and quatre scale just to save a little money. There are many makes out there. Morplan sells budget ones but they are still hundreds of pounds. The only expensive brands I have come across are K&L and Stockman in the UK. There’s are other makes depending which country they are from. I find the cheaper alternative home sewer adjustable ones are really hard to pin to and they fall over easily. Amazon always have something to suit everyone’s budget.
If you buy a professional/designer mannequin, make sure the shoulders are collapsible. It will cost more but it’ll make putting on garments so easy.
So, that’s all for this part. Make sure you check out my next blog, Sewing Essentials for Beginners!
Happy Pattern Cutting!
Shan x
Hi MJ, I think the plugging on my website got updated automatically and disrupted the files. I’ll try and sort out when I get back home in a few hours. Sorry for any inconvenience caused. Shan
Awhile back, maybe one of the first few patterns for masks you posted, was a mask that was cut on the fold with a dart at the top. You called it a Basic 1 Piece Mask. I haven’t seen it on your site. Have you changed it? I liked not having a center seam.